CHIReview
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Wazwan
This spot is Permanently Closed.
Included In
Wazwan has had several locations over the past five years. It’s been an underground supper club in Lakeview, a stall in the abruptly closed Politan Row food hall, and a spot operating out of a ghost kitchen in River West.
Now this South Asian restaurant has a permanent home in Wicker Park. And while the dark, narrow space loaded with barstools feels more like it should be hosting ‘80s trivia nights instead of serving food, we don’t care. This BYOB spot could set up shop in the airport and we’d be grateful.
CHI Guide
Chicago's Best New Restaurants Of 2022
Wazwan is a dive bar serving South and Southeast Asian street food that isn’t divey at all. Delicately wrapped Nihari momos arrive cradled in a steamer basket, filled with shredded beef and topped with chili oil and Sichuan peppercorns to add just the right amount of numbing spice. A mound of shaved black truffle tops the savory mushroom korma—a tangle of wild mushrooms sitting in a silky cashew gravy spiced with coriander, garlic, and ginger.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Truffles also blanket the paneer-filled kulcha, which is served with a rich, sweet compound date butter that really does make our eyes roll into the back of our head. When we pull the flatbread apart we realize we’re not, in fact, in a luxurious garden lounging in a reclined position. We’re on a puffy bar stool sitting in a windowless room that we’re 99.9% sure is a bar except for the fact that the only alcohol is what we brought in our purse.
Wazwan doesn't take reservations, but gets crowded fast, and stays that way for the rest of the night. It’s very small, and the BYOB policy makes it easy for guests to linger. So do the charming servers and friendly head chef, who will often come out to say hi, and tell you why a certain dish is on the menu and the techniques used to create that compound butter. From the spice blends roasted in-house to the halal sourcing, the attention to detail is obvious with every single plate.
Like a great TV show that gets prematurely canceled, then bounces around from CW to SyFy to Netflix, Wazwan deserves an audience. It’s hard to think of a better way to spend your Friday night than showing up with a six-pack and an insatiable appetite for momos. Or, you can just get takeout and eat those dumplings on your couch. And if you want to have an elevated experience with similar food, book a table at The Coach House. It’s their fine dining spot located behind the restaurant, where they serve an eight-course, $150 tasting menu that’s inspired by season one of Wazwan: The Supper Club. Either way, the important thing is that Wazwan has a forever home.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Kulcha
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Nihari Momo
Okonomiyaki
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
THC Sando
photo credit: kim kovacik
Mushroom Korma
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Chicken Chettinad
CHI Guide