CHIReview
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Twain
This spot is Permanently Closed.
If there’s such a thing as peak theme, then Twain in Logan Square is close to achieving it. This is a Mark Twain/Missouri/Mississippi River/mid-century-Midwestern-recipes-inspired restaurant - and if that sounds convoluted, that’s because it is. But what you really need to know about this place is that eating here is like going to an acid-fueled potluck at your Midwestern aunt’s house. Some dishes work better than others, and your overall feeling about the experience will have a lot to do with how much you appreciate Midwestern nostalgia.
Twain’s menu is very long, and much of it will make you wonder if they’re f*cking with you. For example, the “ants on a log” is celery stuffed with peanut butter duck liver mousse and topped with bourbon-soaked cherries. While the mousse itself is really good, pairing it with crunchy wet celery isn’t. There’s also a play on surf and turf consisting of unagi and meatloaf with nori onion rings and red miso mashed potatoes. It’s both tasty and perplexing, because the ingredients are well-prepared, but the idea feels forced and the texture is overwhelmingly mushy. The deep-fried green pepper rings sprinkled with powdered sugar taste fine, the way anything battered and topped with sugar would - but also like a bizarre attempt at a kind-of-healthy funnel cake. These dishes are all interesting, but seem more focused on being fun than actually being good.
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Not everything on the menu is so whimsical, and it’s the less playful dishes that make Twain worth visiting even if you’ve never been to a state fair. Like the Virginia spoonbread with cider-glazed pork shoulder, which is delicious, and hearty enough to inspire you to finally find out what exactly a plowshare is. Or the fantastic bone marrow topped with sloppy joe meat that tastes like a gourmet version of Manwich. And we love the version of chicken and dumplings on the menu here - it’s rich, flavorful, and basically the epitome of American comfort food.
Twain’s theme doesn’t just apply to its menu. The large space has a vaguely river raft-y atmosphere thanks to wooden furniture and canvas chandeliers, and there’s also a big fabric mural of the Mississippi River spanning the restaurant. But if we’re talking about Midwestern stereotypes, one that’s missing here is consistent friendliness. We’ve had curt table service and 45-minute waits between courses (with no explanation), and we’ve been ignored at the host stand - all on separate visits.
Anyone who’s gone back to eating Frosted Flakes in front of the TV after a long (likely adulthood-induced) hiatus understands how something nostalgic can be deeply satisfying. And if you get excited about things like green been casserole or the “whisper” of Tupperware closing after a potluck, the food and experience at Twain will likely appeal to you. If not, while you can still have a good meal here, you might leave more confused than satisfied.
Food Rundown
Bread
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Ants On A Log
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Sloppy Marrow
Crudite
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Fried Green Pepper Rings
Ham And Cheese
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Virginia Spoonbread
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Pigs In A Blanquette
photo credit: Sandy Noto
Chicken & Dumplings
photo credit: Sandy Noto