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The Publican specializes in beer, pork, and oysters. If you dislike more than one of those three things, then we probably can’t be friends. Honestly, you probably don’t deserve friends at all. It's from the team behind Avec, Big Star, and Dove’s Luncheonette. And as much as you may be enthralled with one or all of these places (we see you Big Star cult members), we think The Publican evokes the spirit of Chicago so well.
The Publican is a self-proclaimed homage to European beer halls where you can gather and share food with your friends, and there’s no doubt about that fact upon entering the room. The high ceilings reverberate noise, while the thick wood tables and furnishings will remind you of Game of Thrones, and the majority of seating comes from a giant U-shaped communal table fit for a medieval feast. Don’t be shy towards others dining near you either, because there’s a pretty good chance you’ll be rubbing elbows/meat plates with them. There are also some high tops to stand at for drinks and appetizers, plus enclosed booths along one wall for more intimate dining. But if we are being honest, those penalty box like sin bins kind of creep us out. Our preference is always to sit at the communal table, even with a group of four.
In terms of the food, we’ve enjoyed everything from sweet breads and duck hearts to sea urchin and oysters, plus on the weekends they serve a great brunch. And if you find yourself thinking it all tastes better than similar dishes elsewhere, that’s because it does. Dinners at The Publican should definitely be heavy on the meats, but make sure to get a taste of all parts of the menu, including a little bit of seafood and some veggie sides as well.