CHIReview
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Segnatore
Included In
Chicago is full of the usual Italian American suspects: a little vodka rigatoni, some chicken parm, a couple glasses of wine—you get the idea. And at first glance Segnatore in Humboldt Park appears to be another installment of the Chicago’s Casual Neighborhood Italian Restaurant franchise.
It has a lived-in feel, complete with mismatched chairs, vintage wallpaper, and a long wooden bar that’s begging to become someone’s forwarding address. And, yes, we happily admit: the candlelit space is charming. But it’s the excellent food that makes Segnatore stand out in Chicago’s crowded red sauce landscape. A meal here might seem like another red sauce rerun, but will end up being a Very Special Episode of your typical wine and pasta night.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Every dish has some kind of creative twist that makes it interesting. Like meatballs filled with melted scamorza, offering the benefits of a Juicy Lucy without the risk of third-degree burns. Or a deconstructed lasagna that’s a mound of handmade garlic mafaldine, whipped ricotta, and a mushroom bolognese that would win in a steel cage match against any meat version. If there’s such a thing as a pasta cuffing season, then the leek gramigne, tossed with short rib and cured egg yolk, is who we’re choosing to comfort us through winter.
There are also impressive entrees like the juicy porchetta that, thanks to the addition of a bitter greens and a prune mostarda, has the perfect balance of fat, acid, and sweet. Or the slightly-subversive family-style whole fried chicken that you probably won’t find on the menu at your local trattoria.
Also unlike your typical neighborhood spot, you should probably make reservations for dinner here, even on a weeknight. Segnatore is almost always busy, buzzing with couples, small groups, and the occasional celebration that makes us wonder how eight adults managed to align their schedules on a Tuesday. But you can usually get same day reservations, and you can almost always just walk in by yourself for a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine at the bar. That usually ends up being our favorite episode of Neighborhood Italian Restaurant, anyway.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
House Breads
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Meatballs
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Freestyle "Lasagna"
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Leek Gramigne
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Capellini
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Porchetta
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Rosemary Fries
Brussels Sprout Risotto