CHIReview
Included In
There are no other restaurants like Andros Taverna in Logan Square. This Greek spot is huge, unbelievably busy, and filled with a mixed bag of couples dressed up for a night out on the town, coworkers having team dinners, and large groups who drove in from the suburbs to celebrate someone’s birthday. Oh, and it has valet parking.
Another thing that makes Andros a uniquely useful addition to the neighborhood is that it has delicious Greek food - all of which is perfect for sharing with the groups of people mentioned above. There are wonderful mezze and spreads, and classics like rich eggplant moussaka. It’s perfectly engineered, with ideal ratios of meat, potato, eggplant, and creamy bechamel that will satisfy the moussaka connoisseurs lurking around out there.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
And anything from their wood-burning oven is excellent. The octopus is one of the most tender we’ve had - four fat tentacles innocently sitting in lemon olive oil, just begging to be consumed. The lamb ribs are equally straightforward, dressed in the same citrusy oil and lightly seasoned with oregano and salt. Andros also has exceptional baked things - like the fluffy pita, soft sesame village bread, and crispy phyllo that makes you retroactively mad about every soggy spanakopita you’ve ever poked at with your fork. Order any combination of the above, and you’re going to have a fun Greek feast.
You know where you can find a lot of restaurants just like Andros Taverna? River North. Considering that the owner of this upscale spot used to be the ‘P’ in RPM, it’s no surprise that Andros is very good at cultivating a similarly buzzy atmosphere. That downtown vibe brings us to the unavoidable topic of gentrification, which has been steadily accelerating in this neighborhood since 2000. And it doesn’t go unnoticed that Andros is located in the new Logan Apartments building, which replaced beloved neighborhood fixture Mega Mall, and is part of the Logan Square gentrification discussion. So while we like Andros for a fun group meal or date night, it’s important to also spend time and money at some older neighborhood restaurant fixtures, like 90 Miles Cuban Cafe or Mi Tocaya.
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
There are a few other things to keep in mind before you visit. This restaurant is a magnet for large, boisterous groups, and if you come here on a date, you might find your charming jokes competing for attention with the loud table of eight right next to you. And occasionally dishes can be inconsistent. That normally-incredible spanakopita might be a little cold in the middle, or the kataifi cheese pie might arrive at the table uncharacteristically dry.
But if you happen to be at one of those loud tables passing around a whole grilled fish, you probably won’t even notice. You’ll be too busy giggling over how many glasses of wine Grandma’s had, or scheming whether or not you should claim the last bites of octopus.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Crispy Kataifi Cheese Pie
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Octopus
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Lamb Ribs and T-Bone
Eggplant Moussaka
photo credit: Kim Kovacik
Spanakopita
Gyro
Prawn Saganaki
photo credit: Kim Kovacik