ATXReview
photo credit: Toshokan
Toshokan
Included In
The first time we read Harry Potter as kids, we carried around a stick for three weeks, quietly whispering “alohomora” as we pointed it at every locked door in the house. We like to think it was our technique to blame—and not our lack of magic—for the doors that never opened, but we’ll leave that up for debate. Now that we’re adults, we know that magic isn’t real. But every once in a while we experience something that brings back that same childlike sense of wonder. And it’s a feeling we felt once again when we stepped into a dining room hidden behind a bookshelf (no spells needed) at Toshokan, a small, six-seat omakase sushi spot in an East Austin hostel serving an exciting mix of classic and creative bites.
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photo credit: Richard Casteel
The whole experience starts with a welcome drink in a large hallway between the hostel bar and a tattoo shop. Eventually, the bookshelf at the end of the hall opens up and you’ll make your way into a secret room the size of Harry Potter’s cupboard under the stairs, with decorations ranging from cute Japanese toys and old bottles of whiskey, to Taylor Swift memorabilia and an acoustic guitar. Most nights you’ll hear a soundtrack of old school hip hop, unless you show up on one of the monthly-ish theme nights with one-offs like Star Wars and Mean Girls or the semi-recurring “Sushi With Swifties,” for which you can probably already guess the soundtrack. It’s a place that tries not to take itself too seriously, despite requiring a pretty seriously-priced (and hard to snag) ticket for entry.
A meal here consists of about 14 courses that are mostly nigiri, but it gets broken up with a few small plates here and there so that the whole thing doesn’t feel like a sushi onslaught. About half of the courses are pretty classic—with minimal garnish—but for every piece of otoro with soy and wasabi, you’ll also get some nigiri topped with cured egg yolk shavings or bruleed tangerine slices. A meal here ultimately falls into the “new-school nigiri” category, but where Toshokan differs from some of its contemporaries—like Sushi Bar or Sushi By Scratch—is in the restraint. Even when Toshokan does get a bit creative with the garnishes, there are never a half dozen different toppings competing with each other. The fish is ultimately the star of the show.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Subtlety does go out the window at times, with rich dishes like torched bone marrow nigiri served with shiso chimichurri, but it’s decadent in a way that works when it’s limited to only a few bites spread throughout the night. And at the end of the meal, they bring out a giant wheel of chocolate and melt it tableside, with a blowtorch, onto a scoop of toasted marshmallow ice cream—a s’mores version of raclette. It serves just as much as a sweet finish as it does a reminder of what Toshokan is all about: excellent, creative food in a fun environment.
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Leaving the secret room behind the bookshelf after all those hours feels a little like taking your nose out of a book for the first time after an all-nighter and realizing you’re not, in fact, in a whimsical castle in Scotland. You’re in a hostel in East Austin, but for just a few hours, it’s easy to get caught up in the magic of it all. At least until you get the bill, but we’re sure there’s a spell for that somewhere.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Richard Casteel
Omakase
Drinks