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It’s not on the menu, but there’s a good chance your server will suggest the tableside guacamole. Except it’s not really guacamole (and also not prepared tableside). It’s drowning in olive oil, covered in a small herb salad, and tastes like pesto. The avocado concoction isn’t bad, but it’s as Mexican as the Colosseum and tells you everything you need to know about Chateau ZZ’s.
This isn’t a Mexican restaurant. It’s an Italian-American impersonator. And the only way to not be driven mad by the food here, which is occasionally tasty and frequently confusing, is to question everything this restaurant tells you.
photo credit: Virginia Otazo
It’s best to approach Chateau ZZ’s with equal parts skepticism and amusement. After all, this alleged Mexican restaurant sits inside a Brickell mansion designed to look like a French chateau. Navigating the labyrinth of dining rooms requires some nimble hip-swiveling past tiger print chairs, a giant mortar (that’s where the guacamole is actually prepared), and servers in spearmint jackets. If your tolerance for jungle wallpaper is low, kindly ask for a table in the outdoor solarium—a greenhouse with flower petal chandeliers and a chessboard floor.
There is hope at the beginning of the meal in the form of good appetizers, like the refreshing michelada oysters and various tostadas. If eating at the bar was allowed, we’d order some sipping tequila (because the $22 cocktails are disappointing), and snack on these all night. But that’s not allowed, and entrees are where things start to go downhill—if you follow their unnecessary instructions to make tacos out of the main dishes.
photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc
There’s a path to a good meal here if you stick to appetizers and ignore the restaurant’s own advice. Chateau ZZ’s has a theory that a side of tortillas can turn any entree into a taco. But the only thing those chewy tortillas manage to do is mask the flavor of perfectly good food. Send those leathery abominations back and enjoy dishes like the crunchy porchetta without them.
Chateau ZZ’s is tied with Contessa for Miami’s least obnoxious Major Food Group restaurant. But it could’ve been one of our favorite places in Brickell if it didn’t get in its own way. This hospitality group has a knack for opening spots that test people’s tolerance of excess. Those restaurants rely on striking decor that’s exaggerated, bold, and borderline gaudy. But when that same method is applied to food with little regard for flavor or respect for cuisine, it’s much harder to stomach.
Our imaginations (and taste buds) have a limit to how far we’re willing to suffer through lazy impersonations. We bet the New York-based Major Food Group would be just as upset if someone splashed tomato sauce on a quesadilla and tried to call it New York pizza.
Food Rundown
Martini
photo credit: Virginia Otazo
Guacamole
photo credit: Ryan Pfeffer
Michelada Oysters
photo credit: Virginia Otazo
Spicy Tuna Tostadas
photo credit: Virginia Otazo
Sweet Corn Elote
photo credit: Virginia Otazo
Crispy Porchetta
photo credit: Ryan Pfeffer