LDNReview
Included In
The headline buns at Bao Borough aren’t the only story at the Taiwanese restaurant group’s London Bridge location. In fact they’re a distraction. It’s the big and small, less shouted about plates of food that you should pay attention to.
Where the original Soho spot pushes the definition of ‘cosy’, this location has it all. There’s a to-go hatch for meandering Borough Market tourists in need of a curry cheese bao fix. There’s a row of counter stools for office workers after a quick beer and a bao. And there’s a mix of bigger tables for groups or sharers planning to tick tofu, aubergine, and more off the all-too-easy-to-order-from menu. It’s bustling at pretty much every hour of the day. And sure, you can book the karaoke bar downstairs to murder Rock DJ while munching on punchy Taiwanese fried chicken. But otherwise you’re better off using this as a functional, fill-a-gap restaurant.
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
You should definitely get one obligatory bao. And it should be the molten deep-fried curry cheese option. But after that, leave it there. Not because these little pillows aren’t good, but because of all the other stuff. The flavours of the small plates are of the tabloid variety. Big and bold. Wafer-thin slices of pork jowl sit in a layer of savoury, in-your-face, WORLD EXCLUSIVE-type sauce. 40-day-aged beef with butter-laden rice is a smutty, addictive, TELL ALL EXPOSÉ on what your heart doesn’t need but definitely wants.
Aside from one slap-up reconnaissance visit, you’re unlikely to be coming to Bao Borough and ordering half the menu. This is the kind of restaurant where you find your favourites and stick to them. Ultimately it doesn’t really matter that the bao doesn't feel like breaking news anymore, because the bowl of beef and butter rice certainly is.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
Curry Cheese Bao
Prawn Shia Song Bao
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli
40 Day Aged Beef, Taipei Butter Rice
photo credit: Giulia Verdinelli