Arlington

It was exactly two sips into our martini when the glamorous lady to the left twisted around to tell us that her waters almost broke in the same bar seat 20 years ago. That’s the kind of restaurant Arlington is. It feels like a piece of living history, and that isn’t just because the majority of the monochrome dining room looks like Joan Collins and Larry David smushed together. Once known as Le Caprice, this European-ish St James’s restaurant has been restored—fittings, pianist, clientele, and all—to its former swinging glory.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Jeremy King, the owner from 1981-2000, is back, gliding around the room like an amiable Savile Row-fitted giraffe, exchanging handshakes and thanking people for their thanks. Unsurprisingly, the food is something of a sideshow to the memories. But it’s decent too. The famous plump salmon fish cake still stands up and bone-in chicken Milanese is enjoyable, if a little lacking in crisp. Instrumental chimes of cutlery and glasses ring around this art deco room from brunch until bedtime, and the whole experience is pleasingly archetypal. This isn’t the reinvention of a restaurant; it’s a resurrection.

Rushing isn’t part of Arlington’s mantra, but its gleaming counter is lovely for an delicious pit stop caesar at lunchtime or dinner. Otherwise, settle in for a day at the museum, and get the beef tartare while you’re at it. Just know that you won't come to Arlington for a gastronomic look into the future—you'll come for good memories, whether you were here the first time around or not.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Gin Martini

The devil is in the details at Arlington, and one great measure of this is its martinis. The glass is icy to touch and the drink perfectly balanced. This goes down like water.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Steak Tartare

Tender, tangy, and heavy on the cornichons and capers, this beef tartare is a straightforward order. Not too finely chopped but nor too thick, it wordlessly arrives with Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco to spice to your preferred level.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Russell’s Caesar Salad

Named in honour of Trattoria Brutto’s one and only Russell Norman, this is a classic and brilliantly crunchy caesar salad. The romaine lettuce is in no danger of wilting and the sauce, dolloped on rather than tossed across, is pleasingly cheesy without being overpowering. The croutons are just fine, a little packet-y, but the generous handful of anchovies is perfect.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Chicken Milanese With Rocket & Parmesan

Look, breaded chicken is just a go-to. And this bone-in piece of breaded chicken hits the spot. The coating could be a little crispier but it’s tender, and tastes even better with a drizzle of lemon via muslin. Make sure to get some chips on the side.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Salmon Fish Cake, Sorrel Sauce

The eponymous Le Caprice dish has been recreated here in, presumably, all its former glory. And it’s nice. The kind of thing you’d happily come home to on a Wednesday night and wolf down. The fish cake is more like a fish boulder with a flaky salmon interior, and it sits on a little mound of spinach, surrounded by a moat of creamy, slightly citrus sorrel sauce. Get a couple of turns of black pepper on this and you’ll be happy.

photo credit: Aleksandra Boruch

Tarte Tatin

Yes it could be more crispy and yes the pastry could have a little more robustness about it. But has a caramelised tarte tatin, glistening and cooked through, with a scoop of ice cream on top ever gone down badly? Never.