Hangari Bajirak Kalguksu

Even on weeknights, expect this classic soup shop in Koreatown to have a small crowd gathered outside queued up for hand-cut noodle soup. The chicken kalguksu is pure cold-weather comfort, but we usually go for the spicy seafood variation, loaded with clams, mussels, crab, and shrimp in a fiery anchovy broth. It’s an enormous amount of food, but we still find room to add either their chilled noodles in sweet, icy beef broth or a platter of their signature bossam (the mini size, available during weekday lunch, is plenty for two).